The global skin care market is projected to reach $220.75 billion by 2029, up from $154.88 billion in 2023, reflecting a compound annual growth rate (CAGR) of 6.08%, according to ResearchandMarkets. This robust growth underscores the industry’s dynamic nature and the escalating consumer demand for innovative skin care solutions.
A significant trend within this expanding market is the heightened focus on skin barrier health. The global skin barrier market is anticipated to grow from $373.4 million in 2024 to $540.9 million by 2034, at a CAGR of 3.8%, as reported by Fact.MR. This shift highlights consumers’ increasing awareness of the importance of maintaining a healthy skin barrier for overall skin health and longevity.
In this context, indie beauty brands are at the forefront, leveraging their agility to innovate and meet evolving consumer needs.
One such brand is AveSeena, founded by Dr. Ebru Karpuzoglu, MSc, PhD, a specialist in Molecular Medicine and Immunology.
In our interview with Dr. Karpuzoglu she emphasized that true innovation in product formulation respects the skin’s complexity, integrating advancements in immunology, molecular medicine, and barrier biology to create formulations that are safe, effective, and skin-compatible.
This month’s “Indie Insights” delves into how indie brands like AveSeena are pushing the boundaries of traditional beauty through innovative product formulations that prioritize skin health and longevity.
CDU: Indie beauty brands are known for their agility and innovative spirit. How do you define innovation in product formulation, and what role does it play in AveSeena’s approach to skin care?
Dr. Ebru Karpuzoglu, MSc, PhD (EK): Skin is far more intricate than the beauty industry often gives it credit for. It’s not just a surface layer — it’s the body’s largest organ and a remarkably intelligent, active immune organ.
Every day, our skin is exposed to environmental pollutants, toxins, pathogens, and physical stressors. What’s truly fascinating — and often overlooked — is how the skin’s immune system is constantly working behind the scenes, maintaining balance, defending against threats, and facilitating recovery.
But when that system becomes overwhelmed or disrupted, the skin cannot stay healthy or resilient, and over time, it loses its ability to sustain longevity.
Longevity is becoming an essential focus in beauty, and not just in terms of how long a product lasts on a shelf. I’m talking about skin longevity — the skin’s ability to stay strong, comfortable, and radiant as we age.
Science shows us that chronic, low-grade inflammation — what we refer to as signs of inflammaging — doesn’t just alter appearance. It accelerates cellular aging, weakens the skin barrier, and diminishes the skin’s regenerative abilities. That’s why, at AveSeena, we focus on creating formulations that support both the skin’s immune responses and its barrier function to promote long-term skin health and longevity.
With all these scientific concepts in mind, when I think about innovation in formulation, it’s never about following trends or adding the newest “it” ingredient just for marketing. Innovation, to me, means respecting the extraordinary complexity of the skin.
It’s the art and science of translating the latest research in immunology, molecular medicine, barrier biology, and longevity science into formulations that are safe, effective, and skin-compatible.
Our process always begins with science. I spend time immersed in clinical research, studying molecular pathways that drive inflammation, barrier compromise, and accelerated aging.
From there, we build each formula with carefully chosen bioavailable peptides, microbiome-supportive prebiotics, biomimetic lipids, and adaptogenic botanicals — each selected for their proven ability to calm, fortify, and help skin adapt to daily stressors. But formulation isn’t just about adding powerful ingredients — it’s about synergy.
Every ingredient has to complement and enhance the others, allowing the skin to be nourished and supported, never overstimulated. This balance is critical so that the skin can rest, renew, and function optimally.
And finally, I never overlook the sensorial experience. How a product feels on the skin matters just as much as what it does on a cellular level.
That moment of applying a product — that sense of comfort, luxury, and care — can ease stress. Lowering stress contributes directly to healthier, more resilient skin.
For me, innovation is about long-term thinking — creating skin care that honors the skin’s natural intelligence, supports its longevity, and becomes part of a daily ritual that nurtures both skin and spirit. That is the heart of what we do at AveSeena.
CDU: What are some of the most significant advancements in skin science that are shaping the next generation of cosmetics and personal care products?
EK: One of the most exciting advancements in skin science is the growing understanding of how the immune system and chronic inflammation shape not only our overall health but how they visibly manifest through the skin. The skin is a reflection of the body’s internal immune status, and when that balance is disrupted, it shows up as visible signs of inflammaging — dullness, loss of elasticity, uneven tone, and premature wrinkles.
We now know that this low-level, persistent inflammation not only affects appearance but also accelerates cellular aging and weakens the skin’s ability to regenerate. This directly ties into skin longevity — the skin’s ability to remain resilient, radiant, and strong over time.
Another important area of advancement is our evolving knowledge of the skin’s microbiome. We’re seeing more research highlighting the intricate balance between beneficial and potentially disruptive microorganisms and how that balance influences skin comfort, barrier function, and long-term wellness.
Supporting a healthy microbiome is no longer a trend — it’s a foundational part of preserving skin longevity and integrity.
In addition, lipidomics — the study of the skin’s lipid structures — has become central to modern formulation science. We are learning just how crucial the precise balance of ceramides, cholesterol, and fatty acids is for rebuilding and maintaining the skin barrier, especially as that balance diminishes with age and external stressors.
This science allows us to support not just short-term hydration but long-term barrier strength and protection, which are critical for skin longevity.
At AveSeena, these scientific developments directly inform the way I formulate. Every ingredient is chosen with longevity in mind — from biomimetic lipids and prebiotics that fortify the skin barrier and microbiome, to peptides and adaptogenic botanicals that help calm inflammatory triggers and support the skin’s regenerative processes.
Our mission is to create formulations that not only improve skin’s immediate appearance but also nurture its strength and resilience for years to come. For me, the future of skin care is about supporting the skin’s natural ability to defend, recover, and thrive — ensuring both visible beauty and lasting skin health.
CDU: How do indie brands like AveSeena approach formulation differently from larger, legacy beauty companies?
EK: Indie brands, and particularly AveSeena, have the advantage of approaching formulation with a level of scientific rigor, precision, and agility that larger legacy companies often cannot replicate due to the scale and complexity of their operations. At AveSeena, formulation begins long before ingredients are weighed and mixed — it starts with an in-depth review of scientific literature and studies on emerging research in immunology, molecular medicine, skin barrier science, and cosmetic chemistry.
We carefully examine each ingredient’s safety data, efficacy profiles, and bioavailability, ensuring it aligns with both skin biology and immune responses.
Whereas larger companies often focus on formulations that prioritize mass production, extended shelf stability, and cost efficiencies, our focus remains on skin compatibility, integrity, and freshness. By producing in small, controlled batches, we can avoid the need for heavy preservatives and maintain the potency and purity of delicate actives such as bioferments, low molecular weight peptides, and botanically derived antioxidants.
This approach allows us to deliver products that feel vibrant, fresh, and effective on the skin.
Another key difference is our flexibility and direct consumer engagement. Our close relationship with our community provides invaluable real-time feedback on skin concerns, sensitivities, and evolving needs.
This allows us to revisit, refine, and enhance formulations with speed and thoughtfulness that larger corporations, bound by long development timelines and rigid supply chains, often struggle to match.
In addition, indie brands like ours are not constrained by corporate mandates that may favor cost over performance. Every AveSeena formula is built around synergy — ensuring that each ingredient supports the others without overwhelming the skin.
We are mindful of the delicate balance between active ingredients and the skin’s natural lipid barrier, and we avoid excessive layering of actives that could potentially lead to irritation or barrier disruption. Our approach is both scientific and human-centered, with each product carefully designed to deliver skin comfort, barrier support, and visible improvements while honoring the skin’s natural physiology.
CDU: Can you share an example of an ingredient or formulation breakthrough at AveSeena that sets your products apart?
EK: One of the most exciting formulation breakthroughs for me has been our Supreme Recontour Eye Concentrate. When I created this product, there was nothing on the market that addressed the delicate eye area through the lens of signs of inflammaging — that chronic, low-level stress that quietly accelerates visible aging, puffiness, dullness, and skin fatigue.
Most eye creams at the time focused on either hydration or temporary brightening. I wanted to go much deeper.
What makes this formula a true breakthrough is how we brought together barrier-supporting peptides, inflammation-calming bioactives, and advanced hydration molecules in one gentle yet powerful concentrate. We didn’t just add these ingredients — we studied their molecular structures, bioavailability, and how they would interact with the skin’s fragile barrier around the eyes.
For example, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5 was chosen for its ability to support collagen and improve resilience. Low molecular weight N-acetyl glucosamine was selected for deeper hydration and tone improvement without irritation.
Snow mushroom extract offers hydration that mimics hyaluronic acid but with a lighter, more skin-friendly profile for delicate skin.
We also took into account how external stress, lack of sleep, and environmental aggressors impact the skin’s neuro-immuno-cutaneous system — the connection between the nervous system, immune system, and skin. That’s why Persian Silk Tree extract and Centella asiatica are included, to help the skin appear lifted and to soothe visible signs of stress and fatigue.
What I’m most proud of is that this was the first product of its kind to address the visible signs of inflammaging around the eyes without causing sensitivity or heaviness. It’s an ultra-lightweight formula that sinks in beautifully but delivers noticeable results in radiance, smoothness, and comfort.
Over the years, it has gained a cult following, with loyal customers — including celebrities — who tell me it’s the only eye product they trust. It reflects everything we stand for at AveSeena: scientific precision, multi-functional performance, and sensorial pleasure, all working in harmony to support long-term skin wellness.
CDU: With growing consumer interest in skin barrier health, how are brands innovating to support and enhance skin resilience?
EK: There has been a significant shift in the industry toward supporting skin barrier health, and rightfully so. The skin barrier — primarily composed of lipids such as ceramides, cholesterol, and fatty acids — is essential for maintaining moisture balance, protecting against environmental aggressors, and reducing visible signs of irritation.
As consumers become more educated, they are moving away from aggressive treatments and looking for products that nurture rather than challenge their skin.
Brands are responding by focusing on formulations that are not only gentle but also barrier-supportive. This includes the use of biomimetic lipids — lipids that closely mimic the skin’s composition — which help restore and reinforce the skin’s natural defenses.
We’re also seeing a rise in microbiome-friendly ingredients, such as antioxidants and fermented extracts, which help support the skin’s delicate ecosystem. Soothing botanical extracts and actives are now frequently included to help reduce visible signs of stress and enhance skin comfort.
At AveSeena, we take a scientific and preventive approach to support the skin’s ability to support natural moisturizing factors that are crucial for maintaining skin hydration and elasticity.
We also focus on ingredient synergy and delivery. Using ingredients in the right ratios and molecular forms ensures they penetrate where needed without overwhelming or sensitizing the skin.
This is particularly important today, as consumers often overuse exfoliants and retinoids, unintentionally damaging their skin barrier. Our formulations help rebalance and soothe skin that’s been stressed by environmental aggressors, urban pollution, and even overly aggressive skincare routines.
Ultimately, innovation in this space isn’t about more — it’s about smarter formulations that understand the skin’s structure, respect its microbiome, and help rebuild its natural resilience.
I believe the future of skin care is rooted in nurturing the skin so it can defend and renew itself, and this philosophy is at the heart of every product we create at AveSeena.
CDU: What do you think will be the biggest disruptors in beauty formulation over the next five years?
EK: I believe the biggest disruptors in beauty formulation will not come from flashy trends or technological gimmicks but from growing consumer demand for radical transparency, evidence-based efficacy/results, and simplicity.
Consumers are increasingly well-informed, and they are moving away from complicated, multi-step routines filled with overlapping actives that can often lead to barrier damage and skin sensitization.
Instead, they are looking for formulations that are purposeful, gentle, and deliver visible results over time without overwhelming the skin.
The first major disruptor will be this collective return to simplicity and skin barrier respect. Research has shown that overuse of exfoliating acids, retinoids, and harsh cleansers can compromise the stratum corneum, leading to transepidermal water loss, irritation, and heightened signs of inflammaging.
Consumers will increasingly gravitate toward products that not only prevent barrier damage but visibly support the skin’s recovery through biomimetic lipids, peptides, and soothing mini proteins. At AveSeena, this has been central to our approach since the beginning — creating formulations that nourish the skin’s barrier and work in harmony with its immune responses to promote long-term resilience and comfort.
The second disruptor will be ingredient transparency and scientific substantiation. In the past, marketing narratives could overshadow what was truly inside the bottle.
Today’s consumers are reading ingredient lists, seeking clinical data, and questioning vague claims. Brands that cannot back up their promises with evidence will find it difficult to maintain trust.
Transparency will not only mean sharing ingredients but also explaining their sources, concentrations, and the science behind their inclusion.
I also believe sustainability — not as a buzzword but as a measurable practice — will disrupt how brands approach formulation. Consumers are increasingly looking for ingredients that are not only effective but responsibly sourced, with traceable supply chains and environmentally friendly extraction methods.
Lastly, I think consumer-led education will drive disruption. Skin care users are becoming researchers in their own right, often reading clinical studies and following dermatological and scientific discussions.
This will push brands to elevate their formulations — focusing on multi-functional ingredients with proven benefits that respect skin biology.
In the next five years, I believe the most successful formulations will be those that blend scientific integrity, barrier-first care, simplicity, and sustainability — and deliver results that consumers can see and feel without irritation or overcomplication. At AveSeena, this philosophy guides every product we create.
My vision is that beauty will become more intelligent, more honest, and more aligned with long-term skin health rather than quick fixes or superficial claims.
