Consumer interest in sustainable and high-performance skin care is at an all-time high. According to a recent report by Research and Markets, the global clean beauty market is projected to reach $11.6 billion by 2027.
As brands seek innovative yet eco-conscious solutions, OnScent has introduced Acerola Cherry Ferment (ACF), a bioactive ingredient derived from upcycled acerola cherries. Designed to combat premature aging, ACF leverages fermentation science to enhance skin health while aligning with the growing trend of biotech-driven natural actives.
Scientific innovation behind Acerola Cherry Ferment
During the initial stages of the ingredient research, development, and formulation process, “acerola cherry stood out for its exceptionally high Vitamin C content, its recognized wellness benefits in nutrition, and its untapped potential in skin health,” Elena Skountzos, Senior Vice President of Business Development at OnScent told CosmeticsDesign.
ACF’s development took approximately two to three years. It involved multiple stages, and through the application of fermentation science using Lactobacillus plantarum, she explained, OnScent was able to enhance its bioactivity and improve its stability in personal care product formulations, creating “created a highly efficacious ingredient that protects skin cells and combats premature aging.”
How fermentation enhances bioactivity
Beyond stability and enhanced bioavailability, fermentation introduces postbiotics—beneficial metabolic byproducts that support skin microbiome health. “Postbiotics generated during the fermentation process contribute to skin barrier function, helping to soothe irritation and promote overall skin resilience,” Skountzos noted.
The enzymatic breakdown of acerola’s compounds also facilitates deeper penetration into the skin, ensuring more effective nutrient absorption. “This means that skin care formulations using ACF can deliver longer-lasting hydration and improved skin texture,” she added.
In addition to its skin care benefits, ACF’s fermentation process is eco-conscious, reducing waste and requiring fewer synthetic stabilizers. “Our fermentation approach is designed to maximize the ingredient’s effectiveness while maintaining a sustainable production process,” Skountzos emphasized.
“This ensures that brands looking for clean beauty solutions can confidently incorporate ACF into their formulations without compromising performance,” she said.
One of the biggest challenges OnScent faced in developing ACF was stabilizing Vitamin C without synthetic preservatives, an issue that was also solved through the fermentation process. “Through fermentation, we were able to preserve and even enhance its efficacy while maintaining a completely natural formulation,” she shared.
The OnScent team also worked to optimize the ingredient’s anti-glycation properties, conducting extensive in-vitro testing to validate its ability to reduce advanced glycation end-products (AGEs), which contribute to collagen breakdown and skin aging.
Efficacy, versatility, and sustainability
According to OnScent, clinical testing has demonstrated that ACF helps reduce glycation formation by 36 percent in 28 days while also improving skin hydration and enhancing antioxidant activity. “Unlike traditional anti-aging ingredients that focus on reversing existing signs of aging, ACF is designed to help maintain skin resilience over time,” Skountzos said.
“Few natural ingredients specifically target glycation,” she added, “which accelerates collagen degradation and contributes to visible skin aging.”
She also highlighted ACF’s versatility: “This ingredient performs well in anti-aging serums and creams, brightening treatments that enhance Vitamin C absorption, hydration-focused products that reinforce the skin barrier, and even scalp and haircare treatments that protect against oxidative stress.”
Additionally, OnScent prioritized sustainability from the beginning stages of ACF’s R&D process. As an upcycled ingredient, ACF is “derived from reclaimed Acerola concentrate, reducing waste from the nutrition industry,” Skountzos said.
The formulation is fully biodegradable, meeting OECD 301B standards, and has been certified under ISO 16128 for naturally derived ingredients which “ensures ACF meets global naturally derived formulation standards,” she added.
Industry reception and future developments
According to Skountzos, the beauty industry has so far responded positively to ACF, particularly among brands focused on clean beauty, biotech, and skin renewal.
“As a valuable ingredient in natural prejuvenation and anti-glycation,” Skountzos noted, brands have highlighted ACF’s “proven efficacy in protecting collagen, strengthening skin resilience, and delivering a powerful, sustainable, and easy-to-formulate solution.”
As OnScent expands ACF into North America and Europe, the company is also developing new applications, including scalp and haircare formulations that leverage the ingredient’s antioxidant and hydration benefits.
“OnScent is also working on additional fermented botanical ingredients, including African oils enhanced through fermentation,” Skountzos said. “This project aims to deliver enhanced skin nourishment and absorption, superior bioavailability compared to conventional oils, and innovative applications in skin care and hair care formulations.”
Moving forward, as the market share for biotech beauty, preventative skin care, and skin resilience-focused products continues to expand, fermented bio-actives such as ACF are expected to play a growing role in cosmetic and personal care formulations.
“As glycation awareness grows, we expect fermented anti-glycation bio-actives like ACF to become a staple in next-generation skin care, seamlessly blending nature and science to elevate eco-conscious beauty solutions,” Skountzos concluded.
