“Besides being plant based, we specifically tried to design this material to know where degradation would start but also be stable during use, [enabling] us to predict what molecules degradation would give and to try to minimize their environmental effect as much as possible,” said Jeffrey Youngblood, Professor of Materials Engineering at Purdue University.
The researchers’ commitment to sustainability was central to the project’s inception. “We are interested in sustainable materials and surfactants generally,” Youngblood told CosmeticsDesign. “We originally thought about trying to design surfactants with known environmental fates but good shelf life using amide linkages as they can enzymatically cleave.”
Due to the limited availability of bio-based alternatives, choosing cationic surfactants posed its own challenges. “Our main challenge was trying to achieve the properties we wanted using only bio-based precursors. It wasn’t easy, but eventually we found some options,” said Professor Youngblood, who collaborated with Carlos Martinez, Associate Professor of Materials Engineering at Purdue, on the project.
Performance and compatibility
In lab testing, the soy-based surfactants proved competitive with petroleum-based options. “Overall, our performance from a surface science perspective—CMC, surface tension, etc.—is quite competitive with the commercial surfactants we tested, which were the CTAB quat homologous series,” said Youngblood. “In some cases, semi-bio-based were actually superior.”
Despite promising lab results, the researcher emphasized the need for further testing. “We do not know how it acts in the real world, so still need other more application-specific testing.”
The team also explored the potential for these surfactants to be used as direct replacements for existing products. “When we made this claim, we specifically mean they can drop in for the CTAB series specifically from a CMC and surface tension perspective,” said Youngblood. “But I really don’t know about feel, antimicrobial properties, or other user experience factors—that would need more testing.”
Sustainability and environmental impact
“Besides being plant-based, we specifically tried to design this material to know where degradation would start but also be stable during use,” explained Youngblood. This intentional design helps predict degradation pathways and aims to minimize environmental impact.
“Our thought was that if the molecules are common in biology, then they can’t be too bad,” he continued. “This concept also extends to overall toxicity—if the degradation products are known, you could have an excellent toxicity profile. Of course, we still need to validate the approach with some eco-toxicity testing.”
Potential applications and industry adoption
While the team hasn’t pinpointed specific personal care applications yet, Youngblood sees potential in existing markets. “Honestly, I do not know,” he admitted.
“We haven’t tested this aspect…but if the CTAB series of surfactants or some analogue are useful,” he amended, “this can probably operate in that application space.”
Regarding industry adoption, Youngblood noted the research is still in its early stages. “We hope to get foamability soon and have been discussing some rudimentary eco-toxicity,” he said. “We’re also working on quantifying effects on surfaces like keratin, which could be crucial for personal care products.”
Though not directly involved in commercial pathways, Youngblood sees the broader implications. “Ultimately, we are only researchers into surfactants, not businesspeople,” he shared. “But we think that looking at potential surfactants from the perspective of their degradation and environmental fate using as much biobased content as possible can be a valid way to design new surfactants.”
For personal care brands and formulators interested in exploring this technology, collaboration could pave the way for future applications and market readiness. “We’re open to discussions and would love to see where this could go next,” Youngblood concluded.
